All Blues
87 Walker StreetThe strictest room in the city, and the one to ask for if you want the real thing. Its founder grew up in the jazz kissa of Tokyo — the postwar coffee houses built around a single magnificent stereo, where you went to listen and not to talk — and he has rebuilt one here on a vintage analogue system. A velvet rope inside the door, a greeting before you are seated, quiet voices throughout. Staff carry polite printed cards for tables that will not settle, and use them. Come for the listening theatre; stay for a Japanese whisky and the noodles.
The hours
AlsoWinnie’s, ten minutes east, if the evening turns from listening to singing